papersurfer

I got up really early today. Swapped my glasses for lenses and squeezed into a wetsuit. Surrounded by German camper vans (I think they are getting ready for the final push – see the fourth Reich) I crept through the car park and settled at the waters edge to warm up.
I’d beaten the sun and my neighbours to the ocean and all was still. Not a breath of wind as I paddled out so the water was like glass – I’ve never seen it so clear – no sand or silt and with the rising sun behind me the waves were lit with an amazing turquoise glow.
The first set wave came in just as I got out back and as I dived through the face a shoal of silver fish scattered in front of me flashing like tiny knives.
I think I had a ‘special moment’.
I don’t want to get all ‘connected with the cosmos’ on you – but it was quite beautiful.
I had Cantinho to myself for an hour before the ‘early birds’ turned up one by one. A German longboarder, a Portuguese friend (and quite excellent noserider) and a brace of Brighton lads cramming in a few good ones before heading home to dear old Blighty.
Plenty of waves for all with a gently building swell and a good atmosphere kept me in the water for nearly four hours before once again the arrival of a surf school signified the end of the session.

I didn’t have any expectations of good waves – yesterday I drove my truck down to the coast to tow an exceedingly long caravan to become Ollies new pied-a-terre by the sea. A journey that ran fairly smoothly (if you ignore the wheel falling off the caravan and bouncing across the road and nearly killing someone incident!) – so the surf was an added bonus…

I surfed today. Yeah baby yeah. (You could too – the surf convoy)