It could be said that ‘sunburnt and surfed out’ is the perfect state of being. In an ideal world that would mean you’ve spent half the day getting rockrush over a Bali reef, hooking into headhigh screamers and the only shade you could find is a coral blue crystal curtain feathering over your sunkissed brow…
Author Archives: penfold
The Butterfly Effect…
February 27, 2011 – 12:17 pm
Papersurfer junior, a few days before his eleventh birthday, was in a reflective mood. He asked myself and Tango (grrr) if we had any thoughts on what happens after death. ‘Did we believe in Heaven?’ or ‘reincarnation?’ or ‘are we just worm food?’
A monster love
January 16, 2011 – 7:23 pm
Once upon a time there was a pile of decaying corpses festering in a dumpster at the back of a biological research facility…
Easy like Sunday morning…
December 11, 2010 – 12:55 pm
The soothing sounds of Lionel Ritchie and the Commodores melt over you like maple syrup over a hot stack of pancakes. Fresh coffee is poured at a respectably late hour, the woodstove wraps the house in a comforting glow and the sofa beckons for a day of lounging and relaxing.
The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau
November 22, 2010 – 10:08 pm
Eddie season is nearly upon us again where man and fibreglass take on a stupifying amount of water. The guest list is quite something this year, just one regrettably notable exception. Check out the late great Andy Irons taking it to the shorebreak at Waimea (at around 3 minutes and 40) – that man had [...]
Mushrooms and mimosa…
November 20, 2010 – 4:43 pm
In a cold flurry of golden leaves, autumn appeared from nowhere, bringing brimming dark clouds, sharp winds and the smell of woodsmoke…
Progress report
November 11, 2010 – 6:23 pm
There is the distinct odour of change in the air – the local train station is to be transformed into a ‘Metro stop’, promising
Surfing Canada in a snow storm
November 10, 2010 – 5:02 pm
Winter seems to be here again. Better stick your boards in the garage and hang up your board shorts until summer right? Wrong. Go buy some more rubber and get in there you bunch of pansies…
