Author Archives: penfold

Andy Irons I surf because…

I was inexplicably moved by the death of Andy Irons yesterday. Not so much by the actual event (I’ve never actually met him) but by the tragic irony of his return to form and final happiness after years of self torment. This was compounded by a wave of compassion and condolence that spread across the [...]

A free lunch…

It has been said by many a wise man that there is no such thing as a free lunch. This is quite obviously an untruth as one can obtain such a repast during the midday hours without financial commitment in several ways…

Derek Hynd

“Surfing is the perfect meditation – external chaos and internal stillness occasionally connecting to achieve a moment of near perfection. It only takes one wave.” Who said that? A very wise and soulful man who has written one of the most revolutionary and inspiring insights into the world of surfing. Yes, it was me. Me, [...]

Shiny and new…

Designing a new template for your blog is much like investing in something shiny from the gadget department of your local electrical outlet store.

Tip 2 Tip – Turning Back – Episode 8.2 The New Breed

No offence to my dearest father, he has many fine qualities – he has nearly all his hair, he doesn’t kick tramps and he has never (as far as I know) been inappropriate in front of any member of the Royal Family. But (and I say this with a tiny amount of hesitation due to [...]

Sawn off

Substituted by blue

A short antidote to the stresses of Western life with Belinda Peterson-Baggs and friends surfing in Sri Lanka and West Sumatra…

Batman surfing

There really is nothing more to say about this video. It is perfect on so many levels…

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