Tuesday morning, after a near perfect head-high glassy session on the Oregon coast…
Gerry Lopez: Hey hunnybunny – you’ll never guess who I surfed with today…
Wife of Gerry Lopez: …I don’t know sugar-britches – who was that…?
GL: Just the one and only Penfold – from Surfugal…
WOGL: You’re shittin’me! Holy cow…
GL: God’s own truth! And I think I dropped in on him too…
I didn’t surf today.
…on a friday afternoon.
Me – …bit bored of building today…
AD – at least we’re doing something constructive.
I didn’t surf today.
LoTG – when’s our wedding anniversary?
DP – we’ve missed it…
LoTG – Oh…
DP – yeah – it was nearly a year ago.
I didn’t surf today.
(on the rather lengthy subject of ‘mad women in our lives’ this conversation has been hugely edited for our own safety)
AD – if I wanted to mess with her mind I’d pop round for a cup of tea and hide her keys…
Me – …did you ever visit my granny…?
Wolfboy (having recently returned from Les Montagnes) – …I wouldn’t. I’d pitch up on a Saturday morning asking her where the kids were as it was my weekend to have them…
AD – …but you don’t have kids!?
Wolfboy – that’s right…
I didn’t surf today.
Halfway through shovelling and barrowing a mountain of rubble and broken bricks from one end of a building site to another AD turned to me and said…
‘I love doing this shit…’
‘Why’s that?’ I enquired, slightly bemused.
‘Well – I feel like I’m working hard…’
‘Uh huh’
‘It makes me sweat a lot…’
‘Er – okay…’
‘…and…’
‘Uh huh…?’
‘…and most of all… I can’t fuck this up!’
I didn’t surf today. We started on my house though – more of that later…
AD – stoners are usually really funny people…
Me – nah – they just think they’re funny because they’re stoned.
AD – does that go for me too…?
Me – uh huh….
AD – so I’m not funny…?
Me – you will be if you have a joint.
AD – oh. Better roll one up then…
I didn’t surf today.
Me – those free Portuguese lessons sound good, you should do it!
AD – hmmm not sure really…
Me – then you could talk to Portuguese girls!
AD – true. And I am bilingual curious…
I didn’t surf today.
AD – If I go to bed on my own with every intention of knocking one out and then tell myself I have a headache and then roll over and go to sleep – what does that mean?
Me – you’re getting old…?
AD – Maybe I should split up with myself…
I didn’t surf today.