I demand freedom. Society has smeared its smog covered and weighty hand across the canvas of surfing and created a brutal corporate image for us to adhere to. It was the last bastion of the open mind and the free will to express ourselves in a physical and raw moment of integration with the universe. [...]
I bought a shortboard about three years ago – at the time I was surfing most weeks – I was in good shape and the purchase seemed to make sense. I used it a few times that summer – on bigger, hollower days. But on the whole it’s just been gathering dust in my bedroom [...]
…I haven’t surfed at Cabedelo (Figueira de Foz) in a while. My lack of inertia since the winter months has been tough to shake and so has the additional layer of insulation I’ve been cultivating. The waves there are a bit punchier than most around the Peniche area so you need to be pretty fit [...]
April 20, 2010 – 11:02 am
For new arrivals to Papersurfer you probably arrived here through the global sensation the people are calling ‘google’. The theory being that you type in some keywords and you get to view a web page with relevant content. Some of you came here looking for inspiration that follicly challenged, slightly overweight men can (and do) [...]
…due to a painful and excessively embarrassing incident involving an ancient snowboard, a distinct lack of finesse and my unprotected coccyx – I’ve been spending too much time cruising the interweave for idle stimulation. In an attempt to distract my mind from my aching derrière I’ve found myself following numerous threads on surfing forums and surf [...]
February 5, 2010 – 7:21 pm
I don’t read many books these days - I spend such a large proportion of my spare time glued to a computer monitor that books just don’t seem to fit into my days any more.
Jaimal Yogis very kindly sent me a copy of ‘Saltwater Buddha’ to peruse and to be honest, it’s been sitting in [...]
January 31, 2010 – 11:42 am
I’m not big on youtube posting – especially when they are the deranged rantings of my own father (these actually make me feel like I have a six foot tapeworm gnawing through my insides which is slowly digesting my liver).
However, I have posted a couple of videos that me and Tango threw together after our [...]
November 15, 2009 – 9:47 am
A few weeks ago I quit my job. Not because I’m lazy, selfish or an idiot but because I was sick of being treated like I was a lazy, selfish idiot. I may be or have been all of those things but as a consumate professional I try to leave those qualities for my friends and [...]
October 31, 2009 – 4:09 pm
I’ve not been a huge fan of competition surfing – excessively talented athletes floundering around in crap waves trying to impress a row of slightly tubby ‘used to be’s’ wedged into deckchairs. But things seem to be changing…
The criteria has shifted axis from ‘how many turns we can cram into this wave?’ to ‘how deep?’, [...]
September 26, 2009 – 7:24 pm
…and you may be surprised what you see.
You can read as many namby-pamby spiritualistic Dao-esque publications as you like, telling you to ‘live in the moment’ or ‘become one with you inner self’ but you’ll never reach enlightenment. You can ‘Om’ yourself into a state of nausea or stick crystals up your Chakras till the [...]
