I don’t read many books these days - I spend such a large proportion of my spare time glued to a computer monitor that books just don’t seem to fit into my days any more.
Jaimal Yogis very kindly sent me a copy of ‘Saltwater Buddha’ to peruse and to be honest, it’s been sitting in [...]
I’m not big on youtube posting – especially when they are the deranged rantings of my own father (these actually make me feel like I have a six foot tapeworm gnawing through my insides which is slowly digesting my liver).
However, I have posted a couple of videos that me and Tango threw together after our [...]
A few weeks ago I quit my job. Not because I’m lazy, selfish or an idiot but because I was sick of being treated like I was a lazy, selfish idiot. I may be or have been all of those things but as a consumate professional I try to leave those qualities for my friends and [...]
I’ve not been a huge fan of competition surfing – excessively talented athletes floundering around in crap waves trying to impress a row of slightly tubby ‘used to be’s’ wedged into deckchairs. But things seem to be changing…
The criteria has shifted axis from ‘how many turns we can cram into this wave?’ to ‘how deep?’, [...]
…and you may be surprised what you see.
You can read as many namby-pamby spiritualistic Dao-esque publications as you like, telling you to ‘live in the moment’ or ‘become one with you inner self’ but you’ll never reach enlightenment. You can ‘Om’ yourself into a state of nausea or stick crystals up your Chakras till the [...]
I can count the days I’ve spent surfing this year using the contents of my pants. This is not a good statistic.
Life has been bowling me along for months in a dusty cloud of cement and sawdust and surfing has been slipping deeper into my mind. So deep that somedays it becomes a strange daydream [...]
I’ve been looking at a lot of skateboards recently – the gorgeous Tango gave me the fantastic Whirling Dervish to stretch my learning curve on but I also wanted a board with a tail to replace my battered old shortboard – something a bit longer and wider (and slower to lower my skin graft to [...]
It’s been a somewhat disheartening week in Surfugal. Five months out of the sea has left me very unfit – not so much physically (as the building site fun keeps my body parts vaguely functional) but more spiritually flaccid. When you are surfing you need to be bright and alert as large volumes of water [...]
I didn’t surf yet this morning. Got to go now – 6 foot, offshore and clean…
…it’s been several weeks since I made it into the sea. My last visit to the Peniche peninsula was somewhat hampered by cranial mucous infestations so I was relegated to photographer on this obscenely offshore day at Molho Leste.
I miss surfing when I’m landlocked. I miss the connection with the sea. I miss the water [...]
