I’ve not been a huge fan of competition surfing – excessively talented athletes floundering around in crap waves trying to impress a row of slightly tubby ‘used to be’s’ wedged into deckchairs. But things seem to be changing… The criteria has shifted axis from ‘how many turns we can cram into this wave?’ to ‘how [...]
Category Archives: surfing
Look a little closer…
September 26, 2009 – 7:24 pm
…and you may be surprised what you see. You can read as many namby-pamby spiritualistic Dao-esque publications as you like, telling you to ‘live in the moment’ or ‘become one with you inner self’ but you’ll never reach enlightenment. You can ‘Om’ yourself into a state of nausea or stick crystals up your Chakras till [...]
The Mentalist…
May 5, 2009 – 8:25 pm
I can count the days I’ve spent surfing this year using the contents of my pants. This is not a good statistic. Life has been bowling me along for months in a dusty cloud of cement and sawdust and surfing has been slipping deeper into my mind. So deep that somedays it becomes a strange [...]
Better than real life…
April 19, 2009 – 10:00 am
I’ve been looking at a lot of skateboards recently – the gorgeous Tango gave me the fantastic Whirling Dervish to stretch my learning curve on but I also wanted a board with a tail to replace my battered old shortboard – something a bit longer and wider (and slower to lower my skin graft to [...]
A tough choice…
March 21, 2009 – 7:43 pm
It’s been a somewhat disheartening week in Surfugal. Five months out of the sea has left me very unfit – not so much physically (as the building site fun keeps my body parts vaguely functional) but more spiritually flaccid. When you are surfing you need to be bright and alert as large volumes of water [...]
Don’t wait up…
March 15, 2009 – 10:38 am
I didn’t surf yet this morning. Got to go now – 6 foot, offshore and clean…
In the mist…
November 17, 2008 – 9:52 pm
…it’s been several weeks since I made it into the sea. My last visit to the Peniche peninsula was somewhat hampered by cranial mucous infestations so I was relegated to photographer on this obscenely offshore day at Molho Leste. I miss surfing when I’m landlocked. I miss the connection with the sea. I miss the [...]
Surf report Portugal…
October 6, 2008 – 9:30 pm
…the first thing to report is the continued need for factor 50 on my (ever so slightly) follicle-free cranium, the water still only requires 3 millimetres of neoprene and most of the German plastic longboarders have vacated the line up. Friday – the surf however has not been so pleasant – a howling north wind [...]