October 31, 2009 – 4:09 pm
I’ve not been a huge fan of competition surfing – excessively talented athletes floundering around in crap waves trying to impress a row of slightly tubby ‘used to be’s’ wedged into deckchairs. But things seem to be changing… The criteria has shifted axis from ‘how many turns we can cram into this wave?’ to ‘how [...]
I can count the days I’ve spent surfing this year using the contents of my pants. This is not a good statistic. Life has been bowling me along for months in a dusty cloud of cement and sawdust and surfing has been slipping deeper into my mind. So deep that somedays it becomes a strange [...]
January 26, 2009 – 10:01 pm
…personally if I was a duck and it had pissed down non-stop for over a week I’d be pretty bleedin’ miserable. A light shower on an April afternoon and I’d be fluffing and preening and looking all jolly in a ducky ‘I’m quite waterproof’ way but on a freezing cold afternoon halfway up a mountain [...]