As I lie under the gearbox of my 7.5 tonne truck the rhythmic tick-tocking
Tag Archives: surfing portugal penfold papersurfer
The Mentalist…
May 5, 2009 – 8:25 pm
I can count the days I’ve spent surfing this year using the contents of my pants. This is not a good statistic. Life has been bowling me along for months in a dusty cloud of cement and sawdust and surfing has been slipping deeper into my mind. So deep that somedays it becomes a strange [...]
Surf report Portugal…
October 6, 2008 – 9:30 pm
…the first thing to report is the continued need for factor 50 on my (ever so slightly) follicle-free cranium, the water still only requires 3 millimetres of neoprene and most of the German plastic longboarders have vacated the line up. Friday – the surf however has not been so pleasant – a howling north wind [...]
