I was inexplicably moved by the death of Andy Irons yesterday. Not so much by the actual event (I’ve never actually met him) but by the tragic irony of his return to form and final happiness after years of self torment. This was compounded by a wave of compassion and condolence that spread across the [...]
Tag Archives: surfing
A moment of contemplation…
October 15, 2010 – 2:06 pm
As I lie under the gearbox of my 7.5 tonne truck the rhythmic tick-tocking
A moment of solitude…
September 3, 2010 – 3:01 pm
According to the International World Games Association (a well known and authoritative body in all matters of Global gameyness)
Papersurfer the movie?
February 17, 2010 – 10:32 am
One midsummer day I was leaning into an involved conversation with an abstract artist (of moderate fame) who, for no apparent reason, said to me in an intriguing manner… “…you should write a book…” The conversation was slightly fuelled by a prelunch intake of cold refreshing cider in an ancient, smoke filled country pub. So [...]
Morning tube ride…
January 1, 2009 – 11:18 am
…if commuting was more like this – I might get a real job. (animated version can seen by clicking here) I didn’t surf today.
In the mist…
November 17, 2008 – 9:52 pm
…it’s been several weeks since I made it into the sea. My last visit to the Peniche peninsula was somewhat hampered by cranial mucous infestations so I was relegated to photographer on this obscenely offshore day at Molho Leste. I miss surfing when I’m landlocked. I miss the connection with the sea. I miss the [...]
Apparently Jesus was a surfer…
October 1, 2008 – 4:41 pm
…the evidence is out there – you just have to look for it. The long flowing locks and irreverant attitude… The love of seafood and a drop of vinho tinto or two… I’m thinking the whole Joseph/carpentry thing was slightly misleading – dovetails shmovetails – he was shaping custom longboards for the Galilee massive. Don’t [...]
Penfold and Tango go surfing…
September 25, 2008 – 8:14 am
…it was a strange dream. It ended with my Dad saying something terribly witty… I didn’t surf today.
