A bit of blue juice…

ice cave

…can be a wonderful thing.

I’ve been out of the water for a few weeks now – what with annoying stuff like work and random family members to deal with there’s just been no time. So with a somewhat reduced level of paddling fitness last weekends surfari was approached feeling slightly tentative. Luckily the relentless swell that’s been battering the west coast for what seems like months decided to ease off briefly for my inaugural session of the year…

Friday was just a warm up really – a few 3 foot sets crawling into the bay for some take off and kick out practice but the sun was out and the water was warm and it felt good to be in the water.

The next day however, AD and I picked our way down the cliffs at ‘Secrets’ to find a deserted head high peak peeling across a strip of reef that the recent storms had cleared of sand. A jacking take off with a nice angle and the wave threw you down the line up onto a nice wall for a quick cut back or just a slice off the top – trying not to get too excited as it then peeled straight into a slab of broken cliff that had sheared off into the sea a few years back. We played on this until the tide had nearly eaten our only means of escape and staggered up the cliffs grinning like the idiots we are (with AD claiming the only barrel of the day)…

By sunday the swell had come back with a vengeance. The whole coast had lit up so we were spoilt for choice. Finally settling for Praiainha we were greeted by some long fat walls to skate and play with for the afternoon. Bleedin’ marvellous…

I drove home on Sunday night utterly exhausted but still grinning. Surfing clears your head like nothing else – the focus and concentration combined with the physical exertion is like an undiluted meditational workout flushing stress and brain weevils out with the incoming tide. Have I mentioned that I love it….?

I didn’t surf today but it won’t be long…

9 Replies to “A bit of blue juice…”

  1. Extreme tea drinking – the new action sport by DP…

    Can’t take the credit for that one Nursie – it was taken by a friend of mine Franzi in the Algarve last autumn. ‘Tis nice tho…

    Hey Twinny – glad to hear you got wet. Too dry too long is not good. You’ll have to give me a guided tour of your local spots someday soon…

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