A tough choice…

penfold cantinho

It’s been a somewhat disheartening week in Surfugal. Five months out of the sea has left me very unfit – not so much physically (as the building site fun keeps my body parts vaguely functional) but more spiritually flaccid. When you are surfing you need to be bright and alert as large volumes of water are falling towards you but something has gone astray. My mojo has been slightly dented.

Four days went by. Paddling furiously at nothing or taking closeouts on the head. Being overwhelmed by the people jostling on the main peak rather than just getting stuck in and having my turn. Endless waves either passed me by or shoved me into the sand…

On wednesday evening, Tim (on a much earned break from Paddle4relief) dragged me out to the reef at Lagide. There were just a few people sitting out back with small head high sets coming through…

Again my mojo seemed to be absent, a few fumbled take offs and a couple on the head then eventually a wave lifted up off the reef and my board locked into it. The fear and trepidation of the last few days washed out of my body as my feet hit the deck and I raced down the face. A deep bottom turn and up up over the lip – as the sun dipped below the Peniche skyline and I paddled in there was finally a small smile on my face.

I was due back on Wednesday night – meetings with my solicitor and accountant were scheduled for the morning but the weather and swell were brewing for a perfect day of surf so I made the only sensible choice available for a man of my discerning years and went straight to the bar.

A wise choice was made – on thursday morning Tim and myself paddled out at Secrets on our own. Any surfer who has had a ‘classic’ session will know what happened that day. Beautiful sets of clean, peeling waves held open by a light offshore lifted perfectly again and again over the small reef strips. I relished in watching Tim slot his 9’2″ into several loverly barrels in between washing away the demons of the last few months on my own gorgeous waves…

I surfed on Thursday. Smiling yesterday. Still smiling today…

(more pics at flickr)


  1. What’s happened to my little baby’s chicken legs?

    Glad your mojo has returned …… and it’s always nice to see you smile [without having to show you my chicken legs first]

  2. Really glad your no longer flaccid and happy…obviously. 🙂 Why aren’t you in the water?

    Do your wet suits over there get wet the same way the surfers over here get theirs’ wet?

    1. Medical issues Mr C. Try and pay attention or you’ll be back during recess.
      I have no idea what you are asking re: the humidity aspect of my neoprene extremities…

      1. I was just ‘sayin’ I know about flaccid.

        But to be more specific…do you urinate in your wetsuit? (I was trying to word it better since I didn’t want to offend anyone not knowing it’s a Yank thing…no pun intended)

        1. Best not to piss in one’s wetsuit I find – makes it stinky and attracts sharks. Remind me also not to borrow yours! 😉

  3. You lost your Mojo again thats so careless i remember putting it in a matchbox for you last time you lost it!!.
    Oh I AM BACK!!!!!!!! and its turning to windy mushy shit for my return.
    See ya soon

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