Out of phase…

Some times when you get into the sea everything is just slightly out of phase. You seem to be duck-diving 20 times to get out back as everybody else glides elegantly past through unseen calm channels. Then you find yourself too close to shore so the bigger sets land on your head filling your sinus… Continue reading Out of phase…

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Can you learn to surf at 50?

Of course not – that would be ridiculous. Any sentient being approaching 50 years of age must feel the looming presence of their own mortality. The searing ache in every feeble, wasting muscle in your body, the befuddled confusion at pedestrian crossings where clarity of thought once reigned. The smell of decay when you change your socks (if… Continue reading Can you learn to surf at 50?

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Mid-life crisis in Senegal

Life has changed for me a lot in the last decade or two. Once I was a flaming ball of tumbleweed careering through life’s Wild West; travelling, partying and surfing wherever and whenever I could. I had energy, light and life. I had hair.

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Left or right. That is a question…

I’m not sitting here contemplating the futility of a political leaning. I’m not teetering towards the unoppressive embrace of Engels with a Fidel shaped tear on my cheek or marching brusquely in patent leather knee-highs to a Gestapoian goosestep. I’m simply talking surfing…

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Into the snakepit

I was sitting peacefully on my own in the sea a couple of days ago (on a surfboard obviously – I didn’t go for a wander along the beach and think ‘Oh – that looks like a nice damp spot for a moment of quiet non-upright semi-immersed introspection’) when somebody paddled out and sat next… Continue reading Into the snakepit

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The evolution of surfing…

As the Rip Curl Pro approaches again it reminds me of the first time I paddled into the lineup at a professional surfing event. It was at the beginning of September in the autumn of 2000 and the World Championship Tour of the Association of Surfing Professionals had finally come to Portugal. In fact it… Continue reading The evolution of surfing…

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