– what do you mean it’s in the wrong frickin’ place?
(they turned out nice in the end…)
As we neglected to stay in bed on Mayday and continued the arduous regime at the grindstone I’ve called time and thrown everyone out ’til Tuesday. The incoming swell on the west coast is just a happy coincidence (?) So I shall rest my weary bones this evening then head for the beach on the morrow for huge amounts of lounging and surfing. I may even venture out after dark and stick a cocktail or two inside me and attempt to get sly on the dancefloor.
Life can seem harsh at times but you just have to struggle through…
I didn’t surf today but I considered the option carefully…
I got up really early today. Swapped my glasses for lenses and squeezed into a wetsuit. Surrounded by German camper vans (I think they are getting ready for the final push – see the fourth Reich) I crept through the car park and settled at the waters edge to warm up.
I’d beaten the sun and my neighbours to the ocean and all was still. Not a breath of wind as I paddled out so the water was like glass – I’ve never seen it so clear – no sand or silt and with the rising sun behind me the waves were lit with an amazing turquoise glow.
The first set wave came in just as I got out back and as I dived through the face a shoal of silver fish scattered in front of me flashing like tiny knives.
I think I had a ‘special moment’.
I don’t want to get all ‘connected with the cosmos’ on you – but it was quite beautiful.
I had Cantinho to myself for an hour before the ‘early birds’ turned up one by one. A German longboarder, a Portuguese friend (and quite excellent noserider) and a brace of Brighton lads cramming in a few good ones before heading home to dear old Blighty.
Plenty of waves for all with a gently building swell and a good atmosphere kept me in the water for nearly four hours before once again the arrival of a surf school signified the end of the session.
I didn’t have any expectations of good waves – yesterday I drove my truck down to the coast to tow an exceedingly long caravan to become Ollies new pied-a-terre by the sea. A journey that ran fairly smoothly (if you ignore the wheel falling off the caravan and bouncing across the road and nearly killing someone incident!) – so the surf was an added bonus…
I surfed today. Yeah baby yeah. (You could too – the surf convoy)
A well known Devonian phrase for describing a completely waveless oceanic state.
However – I know a couple of witches and to be fair they are quite bountiful in the nork department and (as was pointed out to me just the other day) if one was a witch (a hypothetical situation as I am obviously male and would therefore be a ‘warlock’ if I were a practitioner of the dark arts) one would have the use of magic and all that entails and one would knock up a batch of ‘nork enhancing potion’ in ones bubbling great big cauldron. Wouldn’t one?
Kazaam – perfect, humungous but perky breasty dumplings!
So pick on somebody elses tits!
I rest my tit case.
I have an idea that involves me (and some of you) surfing a lot so have a look at the surf convoy and let me know if that appeals to anyone…
I didn’t surf today – but plans are afoot.
Or should that be the one that got away?
First – here’s the view from the back door of my truck at sunset on my birthday. Please imagine me, a few friends, a rather large glass of Maciera (it says brandy on the bottle but it sure ain’t! More like turps with colouring) the gentle lap of the waves against the shore… swooshhh swooossshh swooo. Whatever. Anyways – it sure was purdy!
Okay. So one of the best techniques to induce maximum heart rate acceleration is to paddle into the sea during a building swell. You think you’ve made it out back where the waves just move you rhythmically up and down, you’re safe to stop and catch some breath before looking out for a possible ride – then the horizon starts to twist a bit. This is due to a line of swell approaching that will undoubtedly break at the next bar out. Too far out. If you’re lucky you’ll spot it in time and paddle beyond the new impact zone – if you cut it close you get to punch a duck-dive through the face just below the breaking lip of the wave. If luck isn’t quite with you then a rather large quantity of fast falling water will shove you to the bottom of the sea and keep you there in a cold boiling mess of water and bubbles, sand and confusion.
I like to opt for either of the first two if possible.
Today was such a day – a sloppy foot of wind chop punctuated with ever growing sets. For a while the wind backed off, making things more predictable and a few exciting drops were made. A couple opened up nicely for a moment and I got some speed and made some turns.
The wave of the day however, was just out of my reach – an overhead left that arrived just before I got to turn and take it. There’s always one that gets away…
Eventually the oxygen left my limbs (technical term – ‘noodle arms’) and I crawled onto the beach.
So – I’m back home in the mountains again now – time to get back to some real life – work and stuff. Maybe that’s the wrong way round…
I surfed today. Woohoo.
What little surf there was has been utterly decimated by the howling wind that seems to be setting in for the week. Nuts.
So I have taken the opportunity to make another widget for the fuel my blog ‘design a widget competition’ which started today.
The code for this widget is below (don’t forget to put in your full URL including ‘http://’ where it says YOUR_BLOG)
<img src=”http://www.papersurfer.co.uk/images/meninblack.png” border=”0″ /></a>
I shall no doubt be throwing myself in the sea fairly shortly even though it looks like a bad day in Hastings out there. Surely it’s better than sitting in a truck in a car park designing widgets. Oh – feel free to click mine on your way through – thanks a whole big bunch…
No surfing yet – 50/50 at the moment…
This part of the Portuguese coast is called the ‘Costa de Prata’ or the silver coast. This is because when the sky is overcast the sea looks like it’s made from liquid silver – but when I paddled out into the middle of Baleal bay this morning the sky was so dark from the looming storm clouds it looked like a seething mass of molten black glass.
Unfortunately the incoming swell didn’t match the ferocity of the sky, but the only surfable peak was empty and the 5 mile stretch of beach was all mine.
I caught a few playful lefts, a couple even held me for a turn or two, with plenty of time between sets to drift back out to the peak. The rain started for a while bombing oversized drops into the black water – but soon gave up as the sun started to push the storm aside.
I spotted a small battallion of German surf students doing formation crouching and jogging on the beach – obviously warming up to invade my privacy and decided that maybe it was time to go and have breakfast…
I surfed today. I might surf twice.
Just in case anyone missed the link to my fathers post during yesterdays ‘Papersurfer powercut’ (and to stop him sulking) he has written a cross blog.
I’m not entirely sure what that is but I seem to have been able to get into wordpress today for the first time in a while.
I shall post something a little later, maybe something about surfing – just a thought…