Retro skate freak

Kilian Martin is an out and out freak of nature. I mean that in a good way of course. His mother must be very proud…

His beautiful skills are finely displayed here by Brett Novak’s consumate film making abilities. A fine combination. Rather like a freshly seared steak of yellowfin tuna with a delicate spattering of wasabi. Or a packet of pickled onion Monster Munch with a cold pint of Strongbow…

I didn’t surf today. Obviously.

Andy Irons I surf because…

I was inexplicably moved by the death of Andy Irons yesterday. Not so much by the actual event (I’ve never actually met him) but by the tragic irony of his return to form and final happiness after years of self torment. This was compounded by a wave of compassion and condolence that spread across the internet finally filling my news feed almost completely by mid morning today.

Rest in peace Andy Irons, my best wishes to your wife and family…

The future of surfing…

surfing in the 21st century

I demand freedom. Society has smeared its smog covered and weighty hand across the canvas of surfing and created a brutal corporate image for us to adhere to. It was the last bastion of the open mind and the free will to express ourselves in a physical and raw moment of integration with the universe. We were wild and savage beasts, fighting our way through the endless drudgery of modern existence to find that tiny element of time and space where we become one with ourselves and to be is all we need.

Now we are tiny mice on the treadmill of the Man – going round and round and round. Day in day out. Becoming autonomous drones – dressing the same. Acting the same. Being the same. Surfing the same. Be free tiny people. Grow your hair and burn your bra. Stick it to the Man.

This painting could say all of that. Or I could be spouting a load of old toss and it could be a weird dream I had the other night…

You can see it full screen if you click here.

I didn’t surf today. Stuff on my mind…