Kilian Martin is an out and out freak of nature. I mean that in a good way of course. His mother must be very proud… His beautiful skills are finely displayed here by Brett Novak’s consumate film making abilities. A fine combination. Rather like a freshly seared steak of yellowfin tuna with a delicate spattering… Continue reading Retro skate freak
Category: surfing
Size doesn’t matter…
‘Size doesn’t matter!’… a puzzling phrase that my father used to mutter to himself a lot whilst rummaging in his man-shed. Very true of course in many respects…
Sunburnt and surfed out
It could be said that ‘sunburnt and surfed out’ is the perfect state of being. In an ideal world that would mean you’ve spent half the day getting rockrush over a Bali reef, hooking into headhigh screamers and the only shade you could find is a coral blue crystal curtain feathering over your sunkissed brow…
Andy Irons I surf because…
I was inexplicably moved by the death of Andy Irons yesterday. Not so much by the actual event (I’ve never actually met him) but by the tragic irony of his return to form and final happiness after years of self torment. This was compounded by a wave of compassion and condolence that spread across the… Continue reading Andy Irons I surf because…
Kelly Slater – man or mountain?
This post serves no purpose whatsoever.
A moment of contemplation…
As I lie under the gearbox of my 7.5 tonne truck the rhythmic tick-tocking
A moment of solitude…
According to the International World Games Association (a well known and authoritative body in all matters of Global gameyness)
The future of surfing…
I demand freedom. Society has smeared its smog covered and weighty hand across the canvas of surfing and created a brutal corporate image for us to adhere to. It was the last bastion of the open mind and the free will to express ourselves in a physical and raw moment of integration with the universe.… Continue reading The future of surfing…