Retro skate freak

Kilian Martin is an out and out freak of nature. I mean that in a good way of course. His mother must be very proud…

His beautiful skills are finely displayed here by Brett Novak’s consumate film making abilities. A fine combination. Rather like a freshly seared steak of yellowfin tuna with a delicate spattering of wasabi. Or a packet of pickled onion Monster Munch with a cold pint of Strongbow…

I didn’t surf today. Obviously.

The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau

Eddie season is nearly upon us again where man and fibreglass take on a stupifying amount of water. The guest list is quite something this year, just one regrettably notable exception. Check out the late great Andy Irons taking it to the shorebreak at Waimea (at around 3 minutes and 40) – that man had some gargantuan tomatoes…

Surfing Canada in a snow storm

Winter seems to be here again. Better stick your boards in the garage and hang up your board shorts until summer right? Wrong. Go buy some more rubber and get in there you bunch of pansies…

Andy Irons I surf because…

I was inexplicably moved by the death of Andy Irons yesterday. Not so much by the actual event (I’ve never actually met him) but by the tragic irony of his return to form and final happiness after years of self torment. This was compounded by a wave of compassion and condolence that spread across the internet finally filling my news feed almost completely by mid morning today.

Rest in peace Andy Irons, my best wishes to your wife and family…

Derek Hynd

“Surfing is the perfect meditation – external chaos and internal stillness occasionally connecting to achieve a moment of near perfection. It only takes one wave.”

Who said that? A very wise and soulful man who has written one of the most revolutionary and inspiring insights into the world of surfing. Yes, it was me. Me, me all about me.

This video however has nothing to do with me and it is good…

Tip 2 Tip – Turning Back – Episode 8.2 The New Breed

No offence to my dearest father, he has many fine qualities – he has nearly all his hair, he doesn’t kick tramps and he has never (as far as I know) been inappropriate in front of any member of the Royal Family. But (and I say this with a tiny amount of hesitation due to the inherent loyalty instilled into my psyche by his guiding hand) I wish Tom Curren was my Dad…

Substituted by blue


A short antidote to the stresses of Western life with Belinda Peterson-Baggs and friends surfing in Sri Lanka and West Sumatra…