Hot, tired and hungry. That’s how I felt when I reached the beach – it’s been a long week getting roasted at the Grindstone. The weather has changed suddenly and summer seems to have enveloped the centre of Portugal. We’ve spent the last two weeks coersing an old, collapsing roof to the ground and then rebuilding it. All the new timbers are now in place and it’s starting to look like a house again (my clients turned up at ground zero just after the major destruction – they looked more than slightly concerned).
But the sea has cooled, refreshed and fed me. I surfed ’til late last night. Duckdiving through green walls that lit up with a golden burst as I punched through them. Glassy slicks of purple and orange that lifted into clean lines of swell giving me playful walls to carve and glide. The joys of a west coast surf at sunset…
A few drinks, a barbeque with friends and a short night before a morning session. I can sleep later.
I surfed today