Or should that be the one that got away?
First – here’s the view from the back door of my truck at sunset on my birthday. Please imagine me, a few friends, a rather large glass of Maciera (it says brandy on the bottle but it sure ain’t! More like turps with colouring) the gentle lap of the waves against the shore… swooshhh swooossshh swooo. Whatever. Anyways – it sure was purdy!
Okay. So one of the best techniques to induce maximum heart rate acceleration is to paddle into the sea during a building swell. You think you’ve made it out back where the waves just move you rhythmically up and down, you’re safe to stop and catch some breath before looking out for a possible ride – then the horizon starts to twist a bit. This is due to a line of swell approaching that will undoubtedly break at the next bar out. Too far out. If you’re lucky you’ll spot it in time and paddle beyond the new impact zone – if you cut it close you get to punch a duck-dive through the face just below the breaking lip of the wave. If luck isn’t quite with you then a rather large quantity of fast falling water will shove you to the bottom of the sea and keep you there in a cold boiling mess of water and bubbles, sand and confusion.
I like to opt for either of the first two if possible.
Today was such a day – a sloppy foot of wind chop punctuated with ever growing sets. For a while the wind backed off, making things more predictable and a few exciting drops were made. A couple opened up nicely for a moment and I got some speed and made some turns.
The wave of the day however, was just out of my reach – an overhead left that arrived just before I got to turn and take it. There’s always one that gets away…
Eventually the oxygen left my limbs (technical term – ‘noodle arms’) and I crawled onto the beach.
So – I’m back home in the mountains again now – time to get back to some real life – work and stuff. Maybe that’s the wrong way round…
I surfed today. Woohoo.