I quit.

surfer graffiti

I quit. Sorry abut the grindstone – it was a nice job – super clients, friendly staff, great hours, top perks, dental and medical. But I still quit.
I have a new career path to follow (or an old path that has been neglected). It is one with no prospects and no future – it is the life of the surf bum.

My goal is to wander the beaches of the world with nothing but a surfboard, some ‘Mrs Palmers’ and a small plastic box containing a peanut butter sandwich and a small carton of apple juice. As much as I like getting up really early and filling my lungs and pores with cement dust by cutting, smashing and bashing all day – this lounging business seems a lot more appealing.

I took a few drops yesterday that took my breath away. Long angled take offs down clean open faces. My new 6’6″ pintail held beautifully – taking the lines smoothly and with speed. God I love surfing.

I expect I’ll have a change of heart and turn up for work on Monday – I usually do. But I’ll be wishing I was somewhere else.
Tomorrow I shall be posting ‘Penfolds surf tips – lesson 2’ over at the fuelmyblog ‘our blog‘. I shall be explaining the basic techniques of catching a wave. All advice is best ignored.

I surfed today. And yesterday. And I will tomorrow.


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