It’s amazing to go away…

40 years old and ripping...

(my 40th birthday in Welligama, Sri Lanka)

… this year I’ve been exceedingly fortunate. I’ve paddled out into the balmy waters of the Bengal Bay with turtles in the line up, palm trees lining the sun drenched shore and a beautiful bikini clad Tango waiting for me on the beach (grrr and grrr again). I’ve immersed my (rather elegantly) balding noggin in the icy waters of Oregon – accompanied by the lovely Surftwin and the gracious Gaz.

I’ve even been to Eastbourne (no surf).

I’ve surfed some great waves in some stunning locations but sometimes it’s good to get home. That little bit of extra confidence that comes from the intimate knowledge of your home break coupled with the boost from having surfed the unknown makes all the difference.

I paddled out at ‘Secrets’ yesterday into a glassy overhead session feeling relaxed enough to get the most out of the perfect waves that were lifting up over the reef. A surprise lull in the wind that’s been howling all week finally left the incoming swell unbroken – long, rippable walls that seemed to drive you down the line and lift perfectly to meet the bottom of your board as you hit the lip. Marvellous.

This time a year ago I may well have sat on the cliffs and watched those perfect empty waves going unridden…

I didn’t surf today. The wind is back – maybe tomorrow…


  1. sounds like you are in a good place all round mountain man – squeezy hug and big friendship smacker of a kiss – keep going. xxxx

    although if you dont get to flick soon i may have to kidnap your board and put draw girly kittens on it – capiche

  2. That was the sound of your brain stalling DP.

    Twinny – when are you guys coming over to get some European waves? To be fair the water is pretty chilly here at the moment too…

    Ms UDH – I really want kittens on my board. So I shall stall a little longer if that’s okay x

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