last one out…


Thursday evening…

5.00 finish work.
5.06 get home, shower, throw some stuff in truck
5.13 drive a lot, eat rubbish on motorway, drive more
7.47 reach Baleal. Say quick hi to AD…
7.50 wetsuit on, lenses in, grab board, jump in sea
7.52 catch first wave
9.10 sun goes down
9.36 catch last wave (fantastic lip-spanking screamer)

I surfed yesterday and today. Yeah baby yeah.


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