Or should that be the one that got away?
First – here’s the view from the back door of my truck at sunset on my birthday. Please imagine me, a few friends, a rather large glass of Maciera (it says brandy on the bottle but it sure ain’t! More like turps with colouring) the gentle lap of the waves against the shore… swooshhh swooossshh swooo. Whatever. Anyways – it sure was purdy!
Okay. So one of the best techniques to induce maximum heart rate acceleration is to paddle into the sea during a building swell. You think you’ve made it out back where the waves just move you rhythmically up and down, you’re safe to stop and catch some breath before looking out for a possible ride – then the horizon starts to twist a bit. This is due to a line of swell approaching that will undoubtedly break at the next bar out. Too far out. If you’re lucky you’ll spot it in time and paddle beyond the new impact zone – if you cut it close you get to punch a duck-dive through the face just below the breaking lip of the wave. If luck isn’t quite with you then a rather large quantity of fast falling water will shove you to the bottom of the sea and keep you there in a cold boiling mess of water and bubbles, sand and confusion.
I like to opt for either of the first two if possible.
Today was such a day – a sloppy foot of wind chop punctuated with ever growing sets. For a while the wind backed off, making things more predictable and a few exciting drops were made. A couple opened up nicely for a moment and I got some speed and made some turns.
The wave of the day however, was just out of my reach – an overhead left that arrived just before I got to turn and take it. There’s always one that gets away…
Eventually the oxygen left my limbs (technical term – ‘noodle arms’) and I crawled onto the beach.
So – I’m back home in the mountains again now – time to get back to some real life – work and stuff. Maybe that’s the wrong way round…
I surfed today. Woohoo.
What little surf there was has been utterly decimated by the howling wind that seems to be setting in for the week. Nuts.
So I have taken the opportunity to make another widget for the fuel my blog ‘design a widget competition’ which started today.
The code for this widget is below (don’t forget to put in your full URL including ‘http://’ where it says YOUR_BLOG)
<img src=”http://www.papersurfer.co.uk/images/meninblack.png” border=”0″ /></a>
I shall no doubt be throwing myself in the sea fairly shortly even though it looks like a bad day in Hastings out there. Surely it’s better than sitting in a truck in a car park designing widgets. Oh – feel free to click mine on your way through – thanks a whole big bunch…
No surfing yet – 50/50 at the moment…
This part of the Portuguese coast is called the ‘Costa de Prata’ or the silver coast. This is because when the sky is overcast the sea looks like it’s made from liquid silver – but when I paddled out into the middle of Baleal bay this morning the sky was so dark from the looming storm clouds it looked like a seething mass of molten black glass.
Unfortunately the incoming swell didn’t match the ferocity of the sky, but the only surfable peak was empty and the 5 mile stretch of beach was all mine.
I caught a few playful lefts, a couple even held me for a turn or two, with plenty of time between sets to drift back out to the peak. The rain started for a while bombing oversized drops into the black water – but soon gave up as the sun started to push the storm aside.
I spotted a small battallion of German surf students doing formation crouching and jogging on the beach – obviously warming up to invade my privacy and decided that maybe it was time to go and have breakfast…
I surfed today. I might surf twice.
Just in case anyone missed the link to my fathers post during yesterdays ‘Papersurfer powercut’ (and to stop him sulking) he has written a cross blog.
I’m not entirely sure what that is but I seem to have been able to get into wordpress today for the first time in a while.
I shall post something a little later, maybe something about surfing – just a thought…
I got an annoying bug in an email today. Now you have it too.
So – here I am, sitting in the back of my truck, the sun is just starting to lose it’s grip on the day and all is fine. I have driven my truck for several hours (always a pleasure) parked it with the back door facing the ocean, been for a surf and eaten cake. What could be finer?
I’ve been living in vehicles on and off for a very long time – it started with caravans lodged next to building sites when I was a kid, I added an engine to the mix when I left school and made the dubious choice of buying a tiny ex-post office van. Not only did it look like Noddy’s car it had similar performance, but it got me half way around Europe and back again so not without merit. I then made a massive leap up the vehicular property ladder and bought a beautiful classic bus. At 36 feet long it was like moving into a mansion and with a few weeks of carpentry tomfoolery it soon had a boudoir, food preparation area and living quarters complete with threadbare sofa and rusty woodstove.
Since then I have had many vehicles of all shapes and sizes. I’ve had aging trailers held together with gaffer tape and string and a ridiculous bus that looked like a loaf of bread. I’ve driven an army lorry with a gun turret and I built my own gypsy wagon from scratch. Right now – I have a modern lorry. It looks like a chest freezer on wheels. Boring and white – but it starts when I turn the key and it doesn’t break down and leak oil into my eyes when it’s pissing with rain in the middle of the night. Inside I have a kitchen, a bed, a stereo and a surfboard rack.
Most importantly I can have a new back garden every morning and quite often it’s the beach…
Fans of my father’s writing need to brace themselves for tomorrows post. I fear after teetering on the rim of sane thought and reason he has finally plunged head first into the mire of madness. A line may have been crossed – I now wash my hands of him – he is not my father any more (if he ever was)…
I surfed today – and I might tomorrow too.
Well that about finishes me off for the day. I have been struggling to get wordpress, phpmyadmin and a mySQL database sorted out all blinkin’ day. My host neglected to give me any ‘permissions’ – apparently.
The famous ‘5 minute install’ has turned into 5 hours!
This was supposed to be an exercise in making life easier for myself by not having to do a daily dose of code writing – obviously that was never going to be the case – but in the long run victory will be mine…
Anyway, my apologies for the ‘minimalist’ look – all will be back to normal when I get the time to customize the stylesheet properly.
If you are wondering where the rest of the site went it will be here for a few days.
Time for a nice cup of tea.