A few weeks ago I quit my job. Not because I’m lazy, selfish or an idiot but because I was sick of being treated like I was a lazy, selfish idiot. I may be or have been all of those things but as a consumate professional I try to leave those qualities for my friends and family to deal with. After a few days sulking (like only a real man can) I did what any person being twisted by stress and exhaustion should do – I drove west for several hours, parked my car next to the beach and and then threw myself head first into the sea…
I remember hooting with joy as I paddled out into the mediocre waves. Hooting again as I took off on the first mushy peak that came through and continuing to hoot until the sun started to drop into the sea. Oily ribbons of fading sunlight flashed with purple and gold across the water as one by one the surfers drifted ashore. The acrid layers of stress falling away from me like a snake losing its skin. Eventually the horizon was lost and the beach started to fade.
I surfed until the moon was the brightest thing in the sky.
My advice when faced with any sort of responsibility or potentially stressful situation is run away quickly. Then slip on some rubber, grab your plank and throw yourself down the front of some big wet, wobbly things. What could possibly go wrong…?
I didn’t surf today – still surfed out from the rest of the week (did I mention the head high and offshore perfection at Bocaxica on Wednesday? Mmmm…)