I was tagged a while ago by Ev to repost some ancient history. I have mixed feelings about the whole meme thang but I quite liked the idea of this, not so much to dredge up my old wafflings but to maybe pass the meme on with a slight change of parameters.
I think it should be slightly more specific – the old post should help to sum up you and your history for a first time reader.
My old post is this –
Why learn to surf in your 30’s?
Surfing should come with a governmental warning – nothing to do with health or safety, the possible loss of life or limb but something like –
‘Warning – surfing will strip you of all dignity, any feeling of self-worth you may have had. In fact it will ruin your life completely.’
This may sound like a huge exageration but I’ve seen relationships torn apart and careers crumble. Seemingly sane and pleasantly boring people jack in the whole normal life thing just to go and get some waves.
My decision to throw myself at the mercy of the Atlantic was a measured one. Inspired by a summer of suicidal boogie boarding in the shorebreaks of northern Portugal (without dying) and lengthy discussions with a trusted comrade (who had several hours experience on the matter) I went to ‘Pote de Mel’ (‘the Honey pot’), a locally renowned purveyor of inappropriate surf equipment. I was shoehorned into an ill-fitting wetsuit with virtually no insulative properties and sent on my way proudly sporting a ridiculously designed mini-mal (soon to be christened ‘Mr. Blobby’).
I marched boldly from the shop and stopping briefly to hand my spectacles to a passer-by stumbled blindly into the sea…
First posted November 2006.
This was the post that I had in mind when considering writing a blog in the first place – it came after giving a friend the health warning above. Which he obviously ignored.
Also, these memories of myself during those spectacular first years of surfing have provided a huge amount of ammunition for Penfold’s surf tips.
I didn’t surf today.