They do say…

unknown in the zone at supertubos...

…that one of the best things about going away is coming back home – the time and experience in foreign lands making you appreciate the reasons you live in the place you do.

A surfer will often say the same about a surftrip – travelling the world searching for new and exciting breaks, catching a few fleeting moments of warm water perfection but secretly hankering for the confidence and pleasure that only the knowledge of a homebreak can bring…

I surfed some amazing waves in Sri Lanka (wrestling a twinfin down the line on my backhand at Arugam Bay was a challenge that I’ll never forget) but in some strange way it was comforting to be squeezing back into my 4:3 wetsuit and plunging into the seemingly icy waters of Portugal. Back to the unpredictable reefs of ‘Secrets’ and the lines coming into the bay at Baleal. I had an unexpected moment of bliss at offshore ‘Hotels’ last week that welcomed me back – I dropped into a clean headhigh wave – a ridiculously lazy take off into a drop that yawned open revealing a feathering barrel that just threw me down the line. Nothing to do but take in the speed and beauty and the tiny moment of natural perfection that only a wave like that can bring…

Home sweet home – I have my son (although I wish the little ‘angel’ would get up a little later on a Sunday). I have the mountains. I have the surf. I just have to go get the girl… (did I mention I was going to Candialand?)

I didn’t surf today.

(more surf pics here)


  1. My goodness your hair has grown ……… I hardly recognised you.

    Who is this girl you keep referring to? Will I approve? Has she got any money? Does her hair grow quickly?

  2. Strange how we take the familiar for granted, are even bored with it sometimes, until we’re parted from it for a while.

    I understood absolutely nothing of your surf lingo, but I understood it all, strangely.

    So, when are you going to Canuckland? Send me a postcard.

  3. Why all this obsession with hair growth Pa? Bit worried about your encroaching cerebral reflectiveness…?

    Hi Lizza – in a few short weeks. Yay.
    (PS – I haven’t forgotten about your forum – I will get there I promise… x)

  4. Yep, this traveling the world is fun and all but … really there’s no place like home 🙂 xxx

    PS — not convinced squeezing into a wetsuit could ever be comforting … ?

  5. Exactly!

    You sticking to Mountyland?….or gonna make it down the coast a stretch….? Water’s finally warmed up….not. 😉

  6. Fracas – in my experience of Canadian ladies they all seem to be perfect (mind you I’ve only met one… )

    Tango – you’ll have to reserve judgement until you have your first taste of neoprene joy. Surfing can be fun… xxx

    Toto was sexually ambiguous. Apparently.

    Well Twinny we was thinking of wandering down through Oregon for a bit. Know anyone who can hook me up with a board? I chose an airline that doesn’t like surfers for some reason…

  7. When do you think you might wander down this way? And….what kind of board? (you bringing a wettie?) I’ve got a spare 7’6″…..

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *