Well my life has become a constant cycle of eating, sleeping and surfing. Almost perfect…
I can think of a couple of additions that could improve the scenario but you can’t have everything (and this is generally a smut free zone).
(The campervan full of Kiwi surf chicks that I ordered several years ago has definitely gone astray – gonna have to get in touch with those e-scammers… )
On the whole my surfing hasn’t been that great this week – I’ve been feeling very disconnected and awkward on my various boards (probably due to being knackered and a tad stressed out) but the last couple of days things are starting to flow for me. Because of the way that I surf my favourite days are when I get a really strong feeling of connection with the sea and the waves that are coming through – if you have to fight the elements to find that ride or ‘compete’ with other surfers then the whole feeling is disjointed. I don’t do radical maneouvres or big airs, I like big fast smooth turns. Flowing lines and a ride that feels like a whole thing linked together.
I’m also really starting to hate aggression in the water. There can be a lot of tension when it’s crowded and the waves are few and far between. Obviously when it gets a bit bigger and the consequences are more severe then even the slightest distraction can be a bad thing to deal with. Luckily the numpties tend to stay on the beach on these days or they get spat onto the sand fairly rapidly if they don’t. Unfortunately I’ve seen a few frayed nerves and tempers fly recently – people dropping in on others and ditching boards when big sets come through. Not pretty.
For the last couple of days though we’ve found some peaks to ourselves and some good waves to carve up. I’ll try and get the camera out in the next couple of days and post some more surfy goodness.
For Daddy Papersurfer fans there is still no news from the hosting company. Hopefully he’ll post some stuff here until things get sorted out.
I surfed today. Perfect peeling lefts, playfull head high walls and a few fast sections to race. Fuck I love surfing…