Yesterday I went really fast….

Randon racing the curl...

…a lot.

We checked every nook and cranny of the coast from Almagreira to Praia Areia Branca hence the photos of beaches and gulls at Flickr. South of Peniche was lumpy with no power – Supertubos was like a duck pond on a very flat village green (being sheltered by Peniche from the northwest swell) and the north shore breaks had the wind behind them producing what looked like Bournemouth on a good day.

The only option left was the bay at Baleal. Head high close outs were breaking into the corner at Cantinho so Huwj, AD and I (being utter wave sluts) paddled out regardless – expecting no more than a few steep drops and a thorough beating. For the most part that was what we got – sinuses rammed full of sea water and sand in places that no sand should be but lots of laughing in between. Then for about half an hour the main left started to peel. It was fast – really fast – a very angled take off and a hop up the face just about beat the first section then driving up and down the face to race the curl until the inevitable bomb blast at the end. Fantastic.

I crammed in half a dozen or so of these – a few times managing to slice a bit of the lip off on the way past – loverly. Like I said – I went really fast today.

I surfed yesterday. Really fast. Today was head high, clean and loverly at ‘Secrets’ – I could tell you where it is but I’d have to kill you afterwards…

19 Replies to “Yesterday I went really fast….”

  1. i….yes…er…..absolutely….oranges…..windolene…treble clef.

    sounds wonderful whatever it is you actually said.I might have to take one of those online language courses to converse with you any more….or book a flight…

    the ‘have to kill you’ …is that from a film…its mighty familiar my friend. Its driving me just a fraction stranger than i am already trying to work out where i have heard it before.
    Thank you for kind tuneful words – right back at ya babycakes xx

  2. sit in an office or be free in the surf albeit I don’t understand the surf speak.. I would be like Manuel I could ‘learn it from a book’ if meant I wouldn’t have to sit behind a desk again

  3. keep staring boys – it gives you different vision and makes you look all mean and masterful at the same time – genius. xx

    i’m off to buy a wetsuit and a wig.

  4. No probs Z – I’ve been trying to get the Old Git back for years. I ended up emigrating. It was easier that way…

    That’s what I’m here for Ms Topsyturvybrain… x

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